On professional-grade brushes, the size or size and style of brush will be imprinted into the brush handle.
The medium is mostly rectified turpentine in the early stages of a painting, and then a mix of rectified turp and walnut oil, then straight walnut oil.
I have three bottles, one with straight clean turp, one with half and half, and one with straight walnut oil. I have the kind of pourers they use for liquor bottles in bars on them, which helps keep them from drying and evaporating and also controls the pour.
I used to use linseed oil but haven't been lately. I don't wash my brushes as often as I should, but I clean them in turpentine and use them until usually way after they've worn out.
I am not very careful about how I set out the colors on the palette, and there is no specific pattern. I lay out the basic palette that I'll need for a given situation, depending on what I'm looking at. I find flake to be much more color-friendly raw umber, indigo blue an RGH color-basically a pthalocyanine blue that's been mellowed out a bit with some other pigment cerulean blue, cobalt blue, and ultramarine.
The blues vary somewhat, but I try to have one opaque warm, one opaque cool, one transparent warm and one transparent cool blue. Usually those are the above colors from RGH, but I occasionally use one or two of the old holland blues for certain blacks and grays.
Sometimes depending on the time of year or the dominant colors in the studio I will add cadmium green, other earth colors, red oxide transparent, etc. My current studio floor at the place where I'm teaching involves a really weird combination of mars red, which I never ordinarily use, and some purples and rose colors, the pigments of which are a complete mystery to me because the labels on the cans all from RGH are obscured by paint.
I use thick glass for a palette, as big as I can manage, and smear a thick layer of gesso on the bottom and use the gesso to glue it to a piece of blue foam insulation, which helps keep the glass from cracking. The excess paint that builds up around the edges keeps soupy stuff from flowing off the palette onto the floor when things get really sloppy.
I clean it with razor scrapers from the hardware store. I have several palettes, but the one I'm using now is a relatively new piece of glass that sits on top of a desk that I found discarded behind a Goodwill store some years ago.
I keep brushes and palette knives in the drawers, except what I'm using, which is stored in a can of turp on the palette. I screwed casters to the bottom of the legs so I could move it around easily.
Currently the brushes are in a can filled with turpentine. The can kept falling over and spilling all over the palette so I put it inside an old cylinder from a motorcycle, which keeps it stable.Dear Twitpic Community - thank you for all the wonderful photos you have taken over the years.
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Buy acrylic paint with confidence after reading our handy guide! Learn about paint quality, color, permanence, viscosity, drying time, brands and more. Learn about paint quality, color, permanence, viscosity, drying time, brands and more. Acrylic paints are available in both student and professional-grade paints.
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with the hard times to come. For brands, I use mostly RGH paint, and have for many years. I also use some Old Holland, Gapka, Williamsburg, and occasionally Gamblin. The medium is mostly rectified turpentine in the early stages of a painting, and then a mix of rectified turp and walnut oil, then straight walnut oil.